Cojones (7b+) extended for 2 meters!

Posted: 16th May 2011 by Tomaž K in On The Rocks

Tomaž Košir exchanged old corroded bolts in route Cojones (7b+, Portafortuna) with new gear. He also extended the route for ca. 2 meters and placed a new belay at the true top of vertical wall. Due to the “pumpy” nature of the route, 2 meters extension could also make it just a little bit harder, but not significantly, so original grade of 7b+ should fit (some would give it 7b in the past).  Cojones was one of the first routes to be bolted in Portafortuna (1997) and it was for a long time the hardest line in the crag. It was originally bolted by Tomaž while FA belongs to Marko Lukič.

The route is now 32 meters long!! 60 meters rope should still be enough as climber can “land” on the easy ground, a couple of meters above the base and climb (2a+) down, but in this case take a special care to the end of the rope where you should always tie a knot!!!

ROPE LENGTHS!!! Rope lengths are factory set information and can sometimes be wrong! During usage, ropes also tend to shorten for some %, what means your 60 meters rope is no more 60!! Don’t take the factory set length as given and relay  just on this! Always take care of the rope length when climbing long routes!