PERFECT WALL OF POCKMARKED LIMESTONE
Vertical crags above the beginning of Baška valley were discovered in 1997 and first six beautiful routes were bolted in the central section by Tomaž Košir. During next 10 years only 3 new lines were added by visiting climbers, so the area didn’t get much traffic, all until 2007 …
In November 2007 Tomaž decided to replace corroded top anchors and some bolts in his old routes, but the crag offered so much potential, that he didn’t stop just by that, but with more than 25 new routes. Those were opened during 2007/2008 winter months, all with new INOX equipment on his expense! New routes mainly occupied great slabs at the right part of the crag, that offer enjoyable climbing in compact pockmarked limestone (sec D), while some lines were also opened in short steep walls of sector A and always shady sector B. Extension of sector C to the left is the latest news in Portafortuna and brings some long routes of higher grades, in the yellowish part of the wall, which is unfortunately not as compact as in the other parts of the crag. But new lines are great and worth visiting, just be careful as rock is partly fragile.
Portafortuna crag is very popular among recreational climbers today, while harder routes are also attracting more demanding visitors. Both are able to enjoy beautiful nature and views, what is for sure another reason for increasing popularity. Many, up to 30 meters long easier routes are also bolted beginners friendly (close spaced bolts).
Max height: 40m
Grades: 4a to 7c
Rock: Gray and white limestone, some yellow sandstone.
Type of climbing: Slabs, vertical and moderate overhangs.
Protection: Very good! Mainly INOX expansion bolts and top anchors.
Exposure: North-East, East and South-East
Approach: 20 minutes from the parking place near the main road.
Children: Only partly suitable for small children!
Sun: Only during early morning in winter (sec A longer), until 1 pm on summer (sec A longer).
Best season: Ideal periods are spring and autumn (April-June / September – October). On high summer it is possible to enjoy climbing under quite relaxing conditions during afternoons, when almost all routes are in the shadow and some wind breeze would always be present. You would want to bring enough water with you due to quite hot approach. It’s also possible to climb on warmer winter days with no winds or fog.
Special tips: Take special care if you see sheep on the rocky slopes above the crag, as sometimes they tend to throw stones over the edge! The best in that case is to go climbing in a different sector.
Routes, access, more info: . Click here to download our latest TOPO guide.