Standards For New Routes
PLEASE, ALWAYS CONTACT US BEFORE AND AFTER YOU BOLT A NEW ROUTE IN BAŠKA VALLEY!
We respect the nature! Beside that many of the terrains we are using to approach the crags and also where the crags are located, are private and we need to follow the wishes of the owners. We can’t just bolt anywhere we want! When we can bolt new routes, we need to take care that our work is aligned with the standards we set and we’re following. These are also the standards we have promised to the local Tourist Association and gain their full support, which we would like to keep for many years to come. Therefore please, check with us first whether your potential lines are available and acceptable for bolting. We are also sure you wouldn’t want to work hard and bolt some great routes, to later find out nobody will be allowed to go climbing there, including you.! We are here to help and consult.
BOLTING A NEW ROUTE IMPLIES A STRONG RESPONSIBILITY
WHICH YOU SHOULD ONLY TAKE IF YOU HAVE SUITABLE EXPIRIENCE !!!
Before you start thinking about drilling, think hard about whether your potential line would enhance or detract. Don’t bolt something now that you might be embarrassed about later. Decide whether the route follows an aesthetic line. A route should flow together into an obvious set of moves. When bolting always have in mind, that for some people your route would be of the highest grade they can climb, so please do not place bolts too far apart just because it’s an easy climb for you!
HERE ARE SOME CRUCIAL RULES TO BE FOLLOWED IN RESPECT TO OUR BOLTING STANDARDS:
In Baška valley it is acceptable to bolt top down or bottom up, whatever suits the style of the person doing it, as long as other standards are followed
Every route should be as safe as possible. There should be no special risk involved in climbing and climbers should be able to concentrate only on technical difficulty of the route. Despite that we must point out that every climber is always climbing on his or her own risk! Even best bolted routes can not guarantee 100% safety.
No traditional protection in sport routes is acceptable in order for route to be listed as part of sport climbing portfolio that we promote and maintain. There is no problem if any climber would like to climb with traditional protection (eg. nuts and friends), also while climbing at sport climbing crags, but we take no responsibility for such decisions and can not promote lines, that were climbed that way, as new sport climbing routes.
The only material acceptable for bolting in this area is stainless steel (INOX). Expansion bolts should be at least of 10mm in diameter and 80 mm long, of a trusted brand that is already known at the crags (Raumer, Fixe, Petzl, …) and equipped by factory made bolt hangers. For glue-in bolts minimum required diameter is 8mm (Raumer). Top anchors should be of same material, combined of 2 bolts, linked with chain. Best are factory finished top anchors, equipped by a karabiner or rinks.
You should put the first bolt no higher than 3 meters from the ground, where the second will follow in max 1,5 meters and the third max 2 meters from the second. Climbers shouldn’t hit the deck in situation of falling at first couple of meters.
Always put the bolt exactly before the crux of the route if that is possible. No run-outs are necessary!
Always clear your route of any loose stone and excess vegetation. In case when grips are ultra sharp, you should tap those with a hammer or brush them a bit with a wire brush, but never chip a hold or place an artificial one (glued-in stones count as these too)! If there is a loose hold that is crucial to the route, you may glue it to prevent breaking off, but take care that glue is not too visible!
If one single 60m rope would be too short to lower off from the top of your route, there should be an intermediate belay point in order to make this possible.
Never force a route or bolt one between two existing routes if there isn’t enough space between them and/or the line that it will take is not logical! We don’t want to have number of routes forced next to each other just to gain quantity! This would lead into confusion and would also retract people from climbing in such crags.
When you climbed your route and gave it a name, you can write the name down at the beginning of the route but only discreetly, using ca. 1,0 to 1,5cm high latin letters, and always in BLACK color. Never write the grade next to the name, as these can change with repetitions.
Do not climb or rebolt closed projects until authors of these declare that they are leaving those open, or projects are older than 3 years. Only put additional bolts, or remove present ones, if this is strictly necessary in order to follow above standards.
BEWARE! We aim for standards above to be respected at every route, but also know that this is not 100% possible! There will always be routes that are bolted slightly or very different. It is on every climber to try evaluate the safety of the route and decide whether it suits him or her, before they start climbing it. Everybody always climb at his or her own risk!